Oltrarno means "across the Arno", and living on the south bank of the river was once considered inferior. Here people lived who did not have sufficient wealth to build a palazzo within the city centre. That stigma did not change until the household of the Medici Grand Dukes moved to Oltrarno in 1550.
Medici Power Base
The Palazzo Pitti became the base from which Tuscany was ruled for the next 300 years. Eleonora di Toledo, the Spanish wife of Cosimo I, purchased the Palazzo Pitti in 1549. Suffering from a wasting disease, perhaps malaria or tuberculosis, Eleonora persuaded Cosimo that her health might well improve if they lived in the relatively rural setting of Oltrarno. Over the years the Palazzo Pitti increased almost threefold in size in comparison with the original plans, and the Boboli Gardens were laid out on the land around it. A few Florentine aristocrats followed the Medici lead and moved across the river to make their homes here. In the late 16th and 17th centuries, many palazzi were built in the area surrounding Via Maggio and Piazza di Santo Spirito. Today, this is primarily a quiet area full of artisan workshops and antique shops, contrasting with the elegant palazzi and the unfinished austere façade of Santo Spirito. The local merchants' association organises guided tours, events and fairs to expose visitors to the artisan treasures on the south bank. It is a fascinating area to wander around and discover the true character of Florence.